In this article I am delighted to have a guest post from tailor, Dara Stringham, who shares her advice on how to find the perfect trousers for you, and how to use a tailor to help make them fit perfectly.
Why is it so hard to find trousers that fit?
7 tips to get the perfect pair of trousers
I’m sure that most of us have asked ourselves this question: Why is it so hard to find trousers that fit? And perhaps we’ve taken it further to think: What is wrong with my shape?
The truth is that trousers are one of the most difficult garments to get right - especially for women. We all carry our weight in different ways and as we age our shape changes too. I am certainly seeing a difference in my waistline now that I have reached my forties. Partly it’s having had children, but it’s also natural metabolic changes that occur as we grow older.
When drafting a pair of trousers for my clients, I take into account a variety of factors that go beyond simple measurements. For example, the shape of the hips, tummy, thighs, and seat. Are they round or straight, what is the angle of the hips from front to back, left to right, the overall posture?
Conventional ready-to-wear can only accommodate a basic symmetrical shape - and if you’re lucky you’ll fit into it. However, it’s far more common not to, which is why I’d like to share a few tips on getting trousers to fit better, and what to consider when purchasing a pair.
1. Always fit your largest measurement.
When purchasing clothing, it’s a good rule of thumb to fit your largest measurement and then work with an alterations tailor to fit the rest of the garment to your shape. So, if your hips are wide, make sure you have enough room in the trousers to sit comfortably and not have unsightly creases cutting across your thighs. Then have the waist taken in to fit.
Have a look at the waistband on the trousers, and ask yourself these questions:
· Does it have a centre back seam?
· Are there belt loops that might get in the way?
· How easy is it to open and detach from the trouser legs?
· Are there pockets in the side seam which could make taking it in at this point more difficult?
Considering these questions when you are shopping will help you decide whether it will be an easy alteration or a more complex one. If you’re not sure, buy them and take them to a tailor for advice.
2. Find a tailor that will do a fitting with you.
Following on from my point above, I would suggest finding a tailor or dressmaker that will do a fitting with you. So, rather than going in and saying, “I need the waist taking in by 4cm”, have your tailor look at the fit with you. Often in addition to taking in or letting out the waist, adjustments need to be made to the crotch and inside leg seam. Having an expert give you advice is the best way to achieve a good result. For tips on how to find a good tailor you can read my blog here.
3. Consider the seam allowance.
Most conventional garments only have 1cm seam allowance to save on production and material costs. However, better brands will have a deeper seam allowance of around 2cm for the leg seams, and 3+cm on the centre back. Taking note of this at time of purchase will give you more scope for alterations in the future - especially letting out your favourite pair of trousers should it become necessary. (And after a year at home this is increasingly the case!)
4. Buy more than one pair.
As a good pair of trousers are so difficult to find, I recommend buying more than one pair of the same design if you find ones that fit. I have so many clients who come to me disappointed that their favourite pair are no longer stocked. Retailers change their collections, even their basic styles, on a regular basis. So don’t rely on your favourite design being available forever.
5. Find the best style to suit your shape.
Finding the perfect trousers begins with understanding which style suits you best. Are you long or short waisted? Are your legs long or short in comparison to your torso? What is your overall body shape? A personal stylist such as Stefania can give you expert advice on which styles are best for you and more importantly where to find them. For example, if you are long waisted, high rise trousers are ideal for you. They optically shorten the torso and lengthen your legs bringing your body into proportion. Or if you are wider on your top half than your lower half you could choose wide legged trousers to balance this out.
6. Consider the pockets.
Pockets and their placement can play a big role in the fit of trousers. If you have a round tummy slanted pockets on the front are more likely to gape open and add bulk where you don’t want it. Instead, having pockets in the inseam or choosing ones that can be closed with a zipper can be a better option.
On the back, the placement of patch or jetted pockets with flaps can help break up the area. Again, considering your shape and knowing what will work best for it is important.
7. Trouser Pleats.
Pleats or sharp creases are a great way to define the leg and make sure it looks neat and long. The vertical line creates length. The direction of the pleats is also important. If they are facing towards the middle, they draw the eyes inwards, minimising wide hips. Folded towards the outside the reverse is true. So, a simple reversal of the pleat direction can make a big difference to the look of the trousers.
I hope the above tips are useful and give you some ideas on how to achieve a better fit. If you have any questions, please feel free to get in touch.
And if you’d like to find out more about the most common fit problems when it comes to trousers you could also read my post here.
